Make a Thanksgiving Beer Pilgrimage
What did the pilgrims drink at their first Thanksgiving feast? It’s unlikely they transported much wine across the Atlantic, but they could and did make their own beer in the new world. Today, you don’t have to make your own − unless you like to − but you can try this for Thanksgiving.
Appetizers and before dinner noshes.
For crackers and cheese, sliced salamis and raw veggies with dips − even chips and dip− open something with a bit of vibrant fizz, sparkle, well-balanced aroma and flavor, and moderate alcohol content. Try Brooklyn “East India Pale Ale”, a 6.8% abv IPA from Brooklyn Brewery; or “Rare Vos”, a 6.5% Belgian-style amber ale from Brewery Ommegang. Another fine local choice is “Old Slugger”, a hearty 5.5% English-style pale ale from Cooperstown Brewing. Serve any of the above well chilled at 40º.
There are at least two distinct ways to pair beer with roasted turkey.
The first is contrast: Pick a beer with distinctive characteristic that enlivens the turkey, gravy and mashed potatoes. For example, try Ommegang’s “Hennepin Farmhouse Saison”. At 7.7% abv, Hennepin blends five spices, including a hint of ginger into a golden, slightly hoppy thirst-quencher. Full-bodied and effervescent, Hennepin cuts against the rich, meaty fatness of the turkey and gravy. Also try “Brooklyn Lager”, a fully-hopped American amber lager at 5.2% abv; or “Nine Man Ale” from Cooperstown Brewing. This is a 4.3% golden ale brewed with plenty of hops and wheat. Serve any of the above moderately chilled at 45-50º.
The second is complement: Pick a beer with characteristic that parallel the richness of turkey, gravy and mashed potatoes. Try “Ommegang Abbey Ale Dubbel”. At 8.5% abv, Ommegang Abbey Ale blends exotic spices with several distinct malts and multiple hops, into a ruby-colored, strong Belgian-style ale. Full-bodied and lush, with complex flavors and aromas, creamy head, and strong abv, this beer literally cuts the fat and starches from the palate, letting the flavors of the next bite come through. Also try “Brooklyn Winter Ale”, a full-bodied Scottish-style ale at 6% abv; or “Pride of Milford “ from Cooperstown Brewing: it’s a 7.7% strong and complex amber ale, brewed with five malts and a special yeast. Serve any of the above at 50º.
Believe it or not, dessert is the easy part.
”Strike Out” stout from Cooperstown Brewing, at 4.6%, is a deep, dark stout that goes well with spiced cakes and pumpkin pies. “Monster Barleywine” from Brooklyn, is a big (10.8% abv), aged barleywine that will go splendidly with crème brulee and dense, rich flourless cakes. Finally, Ommegang’s “Three Philosophers” is a 9.8% Belgian-style quadruple with a bit of blended-in cherry Kriek beer. It’s a cinch for pairing with berry desserts and anything chocolate. There are also lots of pumpkin beers out there, and many are worth a try. Still, we prefer our pumpkin in a pie, not in our beer. Serve any of the above at 50º.
The idea is simple. All the above beers are brewed in New York State and should be readily available. They offer a huge range of flavors, aromas, bodies, and alcohol content. Make your own pilgrimage and try them out.
Larry Bennett, Brewery Ommegang, Nov 24, 2009
